Sunday, March 27, 2011

Writing in the Rain.

Happy Sunday, dear friends! Today I slept in a bit and awoke to the same glorious sunshine-weather we've been having the past few days... But in the last hour or so, some clouds have drifted in and now it is gently raining.

There is something about rain that absolutely nurtures my soul. It could be my Seattleite roots, but when I can have a moment like this one - sitting out on our teeny kitchen's balcony, watching the neighbors quickly pull their laundry off their balcony's clotheslines, the feral cats all looking for cover under the random debris in our courtyard, sipping a strong, hot mug of Turkish tea, listening to the local muezzin [over loudspeakers] calling us all to prayer, and writing/exploring my thoughts... Well, let's just say it's very healing and comforting. Rain cleanses everything. No matter how grimy and dirty you feel, bring on a little rain and you are refreshed, ready to start again. Rain renews my hope, reminds me to breathe deeply, and encourages me to be still for a moment.

Some recent developments back home have me re-thinking my original plan to live abroad this year. I've spent the last few days pretty stressed out over it, feeling doomed/frustrated/anxious. Basically, I will most likely have to return lot sooner than I originally planned for/anticipated. While I'm still waiting for the final verdict on this (the final decision is being made by someone else), I am still thinking ahead and trying to imagine just what I would do in Seattle again, back so much earlier than I wanted to be but there nonetheless. I'm thinking about how this return to Seattle will affect my next few months here in Istanbul, what that means for my work-situation here, job leads, commitments I can make to potential employers... So yes, I've been a bit stressed out this week.

But then here comes this rain... cleansing, renewing. Telling me to slow down, to be in the moment. Remember to breathe, Nova!...So crucial! In-taking pure, fresh, well-oxygenated air: the breath of life that calms your soul, promotes relaxation of your muscle tissues, boosts the nutrient-delivering properties of your circulatory system, strengthens your lungs by filling them to near-capacity in an even, slow motion, encouraging your nervous system to switch into parasympathetic mode ("rest and digest" cycle)... Yes, this is the stuff.

As I try to figure out my purpose/motivation for being in Istanbul and am keeping an eye on my near-future, I must remember this -- to breathe. Thank you, Universe, for rain.

- nova.

Friday, March 25, 2011

Mostly pictures of food... :)



Traditional fish sandwich - popular near the Bosphorus around touristy areas... though you'll see plenty of Turks eating these yummy little guys too.




Bus-script.


A thin-crusted lamb/cheese Turkish "pizza" - you roll it up and eat it like sort of like a Mexican taquito.


A traditional Turkish dessert... and I can't remember the name of it now. Basically its various colored/flavored goo on a stick. Reminded me of a nuked or more runny version of a LaffyTaffy.


The Turkish "omelet." Scrambled eggs, tomato & some sauce, cooked with Turkish cheese and with more Turkish cheese added on top, just for good measure!








Good morning!


Iskender... my new favorite. :) Under that yummy beef is some pita, cut in pieces, and then soaked in a type of tomato sauce. Add Turkish spices and some yogurt on the side and you're in business.


...And dessert. The one on the left tasted like chicken (seriously), and on the right is a crispy rice noodle-type of sweet, with melted Turkish cheese in the middle, topped with pistachios and a special Turk 'creme'. And of course, the famous and constantly-consumed Turkish tea...




Shish tavuk!! My first chicken in Istanbul... doesn't it look yummy??




- nova.

Monday, March 21, 2011

Finding the rhythm...

Well friends, it's been a little while since my last post! In the last week and a half I have moved into my new flat, made a couple of good dance-teaching contacts, and gotten more familiar with this ever-deepening place I seem to never get stable footing in.

Istanbul is definitely not for the weak-willed! This place is really challenging my resolve about living here. I still haven't felt like I can operate on a somewhat 'normal' level yet; every activity, no matter how mundane, is complicated. And it's not quite the same as when I have traveled before... Yes, there is always an adjustment period when you move abroad; you get over your jet lag, settle in, buy groceries, learn your neighborhood and public transit, start picking up the language, etc... But my 'adjustment period' is not ending. Yet. After 3 weeks, I still feel that I have to brace myself every time I step out my door. My senses are constantly attacked by this city. Every sight/smell/ sound... is individually amplified and then multiplied by 20. Every street I walk on is completely crowded - I feel like I'm perpetually shuffling along (complete torture for this fast-walking girl!), any time of day or night, anywhere in the city. Every time I think I've learned a phrase and get brave enough to use it, it's ill-received and the Turks just seem irritated with my attempts (and would rather try to talk to me in English!). People here don't say thank you when leaving a restaurant or exiting a taxi like we usually do in the states (or at least, like I usually do). I am body-checked constantly in the never-ending crowd without ever hearing "oh excuse me" from anyone. Bus/taxi/dolmush drivers have no time for your dilly-dallying when they want to be paid, and yet seem to have an unlimited amount of random ten-minute cigarette or tea breaks regardless of how full their vehicle is with waiting passengers. The traffic is constantly terrible any time of day, anywhere in the city. Everyone is trying to sell me something and/or take my money, and assumes I am a total idiot just because I'm not Turkish.

::Sigh:: ...Yes, I'm getting a little worn out here, friends. I am trying to stay positive and be greatful for this experience, but like it was in Prague, it's hard to feel so alone here. If I just had a few friends, I think it would really make all the difference. When a friend came to visit me in Prague after Scot had left and I was alone there, I realized I had forgotten about my sense of humor. The Czechs are hilarious! I forgotten how to laugh about it all until she reminded me... And I think that's why friends are so important - they help keep things in perspective and keep you laughing. I have met a few folks here that are very kind and I am spending some time with here and there, but they are people that I have met here, and haven't known longer than 3 weeks. It's not the same kind of rapport one has with your good buddies back home that you've known for a long time and can really be yourself around... Well, you know what I mean.

For now I'm keeping my chin up, a little weary of this place but still pressing on, and gaining weight from all this amazing Turkish food I can't help stuffing in my face almost constantly. ;) Wish me luck on the job-front, friends...

- nova.

Thursday, March 10, 2011

Snowy city!

The last three days have been really magical here... It's been snowing! Totally gorgeous - though I think the Istanbulites(?) are not quite in their element in this weather; I'm sure this city will really come to life once the sun starts shining again. But for now, the snow has been really sweet... Flurries off and on all day long, blowing in all directions! Up, down, sideways, horizontal... What fun. :) Though since it's been so cold, the street kitties are more scarce and public transportation has been a little tricky... :P

I'm slowly learning a little Turkish. I can now count to 20, say 'please' and 'thank you,' and 'how much.' And make sure I'm going in the direction/to the right neighborhood while on public transit (very important!). My fabulous host has been taking great care of me and helping me practice - see our Jenga game over to the right? We went to a local bar the other night and played until I could get to 20 without making lemon-faces while remembering words. :)

And speaking of my housing situation, I have some good news, friends! I think I may have found a room in Istanbul!! It is on the Asian Side, in the other main area of the city (there are two major centers: Taksim, on the European Side, and Kadikoy, on the Asian Side), right by the main ferry-port and major bus/Metro lines that go into the center (Euro Side) of town. So yay! I think I will finally start feeling like I'm living here, and not just between-destinations... :) I can actually start re-building my life, looking for work, unpack my clothes, lay out my earrings, and buy some new bedding. Oh the bliss!

...Ohhh bliss, you say? Check out my dinner tonight: local, organic, absolutely bursting-with-flavor cucumber & tomato, topped with local cheese, olive oil and spices. Plus, a little Turkish wine (not too bad!). What a life! ;)

- nova.

Tuesday, March 8, 2011

Loving the Fool.

"I must learn to love the fool in me; the one who feels too much, talks too much, takes too many chances, wins sometimes and loses often, lacks self-control, loves and hates, hurts and gets hurt, promises and breaks promises, laughs and cries." - Theodore Isaac Rubin

...What a lesson to learn! It's been exactly one week since I landed here. What a journey! Leaving the man I love, traveling for nearly two days across time and over 6,000 miles, landing in a completely foreign place where I know no one and don't speak the language, and then relying completely on the help of strangers to somehow get my feet back under me and survive in this place... Phew. I got much more of a ride than I expected, that's for sure! And I'm sure getting my fill of inner-fool... I feel myself amplified here, like I usually do when in Europe. But this place has a different kind of loudspeaker for my soul... Everything is clicking on a very deep level.

The food is familiar (what my mother cooked when I was little) and what I crave in the U.S. and can rarely get because of the lack of directly-imported spices/ingredients necessary. Even just the produce here is so different... I remember the first time I came to Europe when I was 16; I had never known cucumbers to have a smell in America! I mean, yes there are cucumber-scented lotions and stuff like that, but I had never smelled a real cucumber. But in Europe, all the vegetables have a smell, they are so full of flavor, so brightly colored and so satisfying. I swear even the potatoes come out the ground with butter already in them! And to top it off, there is no pork anywhere in this city (which you all know I don't eat)...

Seeing mosques everywhere in the city, in every direction... It's a different feeling of awe than the one I get when seeing Western Europe's many churches and cathedrals. It's like an inner-peace instead of inner-fear (if that makes sense?) when thinking about the power of religion and it's toll on the world... But don't get me wrong, I realize Islam has just as much bloodshed wrapped up in its' history as Christianity; I'm just saying that the sensation I feel when standing inside a mosque is more one of calm, peaceful groundedness and closer connection to spirituality, than the icon-plastered, sterile, phallic/dominant steeples of the giant, western churches I've seen. I have only been in mosques in Seattle, and though they are still very beautiful, they can't quite compare with the ones here... Inside, the floors are carpeted. No one wears their shoes - you actually need to wash (and in a specific order: your hands, face, behind your ears, and feet) before you are allowed in. Women need to have a cover/scarf for their heads. There is delicate ancient Turkish script lining the corridors and ceilings in beautiful gold leaf. Inside, the main chambers are decorated on nearly ever surface, but it's an indulgence of a different sort than western churches. It's beautiful but not overpowering. It's almost like western churches aim for their followers to feel guilty and in debt. Eastern mosques seem to aim for their followers to feel at peace and connected on a soul-level. It's hard to explain... But maybe you get the idea.

The city is absolutely vibrant - everything I love to the core about a city and what "cosmopolitan living" means! At night, this place completely transforms; everything is lit up with various-colored neon lights. Constant sounds, night and day, of traffic, human interaction, the city coming alive five times a day with the call to prayer over the loudspeakers outside every mosque in every neighborhood, smells of kebabs and bread and produce... Every store, every street corner, every bus, every building is absolutely full of people. There are people everywhere, in every possible place! What a hotbed of diversity, creation, ideas and thought. How exciting! This is the kind of place I want to be, to work, to live. This is what makes me feel alive! I am totally turned up to my highest capacity in this place, just to survive. This is thriving. This is living in a city!! And you all know, my friends, that I'm a total city girl... ;)

But most of all, Istanbul humbles me. I am scared shitless, awed, more inspired than I've ever felt in my life, and so excited to try and build a real life here in the coming months. All I can do is hope and put my intentions out into the Universe, and trust I will be rewarded for taking the "foolish" leaps I have... Already, I have been gifted these few strangers I've met that have taken care of me and helped support me along my path when I could barely stand. I am so appreciative of this experience; even if I had only come for this one week alone, it would have been worth it all. Thank you, Power(s?) That Be.

- nova.

Monday, March 7, 2011

The last few days of exploring:

Heaven = One of the many spice-selling shops lining the streets of the more residential areas.






This is Istanbul to me. Impossibly crowded, magnificent, and continually growing.




A converted church-to-mosque.


"Kumpir" -- This was originally a baked potato... add salt, butter and cheese. Mash up well. then top with [beef] hot dog slices, various cold-salad slaws (potato salad, a martini-olive mix, and another one I couldn't figure out), more types of olives, corn, and local hot sauce. Enjoy!




Lots of jellyfish in the Bosphorus... :)




The beginnings of our dinner that night... Eventually to become a roasted/grilled eggplant salad, with raw tomato, onion, and garlic, topped with a few various Turkish spices. YUMM!!


Some local clowns entertaining me just outside my Dolmush (shared taxi) on the way to the city center yesterday...








Have I mentioned it's crowded?!??












A lot of streets look like this.


Two cubes of sugar, pre-packaged. Cute!!


...And my dinner that night.


- nova.

Istanbul, better aquainted...

Well friends, I think I'm finally starting to adjust. :) This first week has definitely been one heck of a ride... Istanbul is... Massive. Huge. Mammoth. Overwhelming. Have I mentioned its BIG?? Noises of every kind - car horns, chickens, the call to prayer, trains, people yelling, cats fighting... And just the sheer number of people in any given crowd you're walking in?? Times Square on Friday night in the middle of summer has got nothin' on a Tuesday afternoon in any random area of Istanbul. That's how packed it is. All the time. Everywhere. Really. It makes me really curious to see some parts of India and China, where I know it's even more crowded... Wowee zowie.

The last few days have been spent exploring various parts of the city, trying to learn my way around the general areas/neighborhoods. My host has shown me around some of the major areas and I've tried a couple short ventures on my own, too. So far, I haven't gotten lost!!... Though I know it's the secret to really figuring a new place out. ;)

There are beautiful mosques, life-threatening taxis(!), smells of kebabs, and dark-eyed, long haired men and women everywhere. I feel as close to 'home' as I have ever felt. This place is truly humbling and inspiring -- just when I think I am getting the hang of things, my reality is turned back upside-down again and I'm brought to my knees once more in gratitude and humility. I feel like I will be able to learn a lot from this place. I mean, just learning Turkish alone is already quite the eye-opener already!...

- nova.

Friday, March 4, 2011

Picture Post!

I finally got to see Taksim Square, the heart of downtown Istanbul on the European Side, during daylight! (I had seen it only at night at that point - still very amazing with all the lights and clubs!) This is down Istiklal Street, one of the main shopping avenues off Taksim. My host told me that 2 million people walk down this street every day. On the weekends it can be as much as 4 million!


About to cross the Bosphorus River on foot for the first time...


Bosphorus crossed! Now, looking back at the European Side, with the Galata Tower as the highest point...


My first real Turkish coffee! = HEAVEN.


There are a lot of street-cats in Istanbul. They hang out around the vendors, sitting on wares (or under the vendors' chairs), following people or just sitting wherever they feel like. I notice them in the funniest places... It seems almost intentional . This one was so perfectly positioned I had to take a picture of her.


One of the many beautiful mosques in this amazing city...


Walking in the under-bridge area, back across the Bosphorus...


A breathtaking sunset from Karaköy...


This place continues to humble me in every possible way, at every turn. I feel so blessed and greatful to be able to spend time in this ancient city... Thank you, Universe.

- nova.